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International Mountain Leader, Winter and Summer Mountain Leader

Blog for June 4th, 2015

June 4th, 2015
Morocco, Difficult scree ascent
Toubkal Refuge to Aguelzim south (3,650m) and north (3,547m)

No real plan for the day
I'd slept well and didn't get up until just before 9am. I thought about Toubkal but thought it best to leave until another day as the refuge guardian had said the weather was going to be bad in the afternoon again

I headed down the valley with no real plan so did some pacing and timing. When I got within sight of Sidi Chamharouch I thought it best to stop descending so looked at the map
Idea of plan
Aguelzim had an ascent path going up the stream so that become the objective. Scree was marked on the map as 'canchal' so it wasn't going to be easy in summer conditions compared to when it has snow
Looking up scree and boulder gulley
Slog up gulley
The gulley had a lot of scree but the river bed was a boulder field in places so I used that when I could

There was a 200m snow section which would have been great to use with crampons and axe
Snow near top of gully
When I got to the corrie I headed left as it was rockier than the scree leading up to the north peak

Keeping to the right during the ascent allowed a ridge/peak to be followed. At the top there was a path that went to the col between the north and south peaks but I thought that would be cheating so I went up to the south peak and then down/up to the north
At top of gully before Aguelzim south
The north peak is a small plateau and as usual I looked around as you never know what you might see
Aguelzim North (3,547m)
Further north there was an interring lump that warranted investigation
Looking north from Aguelzim North (3,547m)
A series of rock stacks had been made by previous visitors
Just beyond Aguelzim North (3,547m)
Return to refuge
Back to the south peak and further on to an unnamed peak at 3,680 metres

It was then a straight down descent through scree to the path that would normally be used for the ascent to the 2 Aguelzim peaks. The path ended almost outside the refuge door
Looking south down to Refuge de Toubkal from near Aguelzim South